Theory Of Silk Weaving

to the right of the drawing-in draft.

* * * * *

[Page 19]
GROS DE TOURS WEAVES

[Illustration: Fig. 18]

* * * *

[Illustration: Fig. 19]

In this weave the working of the warp is the same as in taffeta, except
that instead of one pick, two or more are inserted in the same shed. It is
mostly used in selvedges, where it serves to give more firmness to the edge
of an otherwise loosely woven cloth, and prevents the weaving ahead of the
edge in a tight weave. Gros de Tours is sometimes used, especially when
cotton or wool filling is employed, with a view to lay two picks nicely
side by side, whereas a thread entered two ply with the taffeta weave will
always receive some twist, which may disturb the perfect evenness of the
fabric.

Fig. 18 is a Gros de Tours with two picks on four harness straight through.

Fig. 19 illustrates this weave with three picks drawn end and end on two
sections of four shafts each.

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[Page 20]
SERGE or TWILL WEAVES

While the taffeta weave produces either an entirely smooth fabric, or one
with a distinct transverse rib as in gros-grain, the twill weave forms
diagonal lines on the cloth, running either from left to right or from
right to left.

To make a twill, not less than three ends and three picks are required, of
which each thread floats over two of the other system and interlaces with
the third. The rotation of the interlacing is always consecutive, that is
it moves with each succeeding pick one thread to the right (or to the left
if the lines are to run in that direction). If warp and filling have the
same texture, that is the same number of threads in a given space, the
twill lines will form an angle of 45 deg.; if the warp stands closer than the
filling, the incline will be steeper, and in the opposite case the

Sir Thomas Henry Hall Caine CH, KBE (May 14, 1853August 31, 1931), usually known as Hall Caine, was a British author. He is best known as a novelist and playwright of the late Victorian and the Edwardian eras. In his time he was exceedingly popular and at the peak of his success his novels outsold those of his contemporaries. Many of his novels were also made into films. His novels were primarily romantic in nature, involving the love triangle, but they did also address some of the more serious political and social issues of the day.

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Harold MacGrath (September 4, 1871 - October 30, 1932) was a bestselling American novelist, short story writer, and screenwriter. Also known occasionally as Harold McGrath, he was born in Syracuse, New York. As a young man, he worked as a reporter and columnist on the Syracuse Herald newspaper until the late 1890s when he published his first novel, a romance titled Arms and the Woman. According to the New York Times, his next book, The Puppet Crown, was the No.7 bestselling book in the United States for all of 1901. From that point on, MacGrath never looked back, writing novels for the mass market about love, adventure, mystery, spies, and the like at an average rate of more than one a year. He would have three more of his books that were among the top ten bestselling books of the year. At the same time, he penned a number of short stories for major American magazines such as The Saturday Evening Post, Ladies Home Journal, and Red Book magazine. Several of MacGraths novels were seriali

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