Theory Of Silk Weaving

yard. Taffeta, satin, etc., having more
picks, 121/2 per cent. per yard, and fancy and jacquard goods, 15 per cent.
per yard. In the expense account we include all charges except raw silk,
throwing, dyeing and piece work.

SELLING EXPENSES. Before a calculation is finished we must add the selling
expenses to the cost, also take account of the trade discount. Small mills
usually sell through a commission house, which pays all expenses and
charges a certain commission. Many large firms have their own selling end,
and some have their sales guaranteed by a commission house or a bank.

[Page 103]
CALCULATIONS

The prices marked in the following calculations are about as in "normal
times." Absolutely correct piece work prices cannot be given as different
localities have different prices.

Calculations are usually made per 100 yards, 100-meter warps.

Most goods gain from 3 to 7 per cent. in weaving. That is, if we make a
warp of 300 meters for a satin and we obtain 315 yards of cloth, this gain
should not be calculated, as usually there is no account taken of samples
used in the selling department. But the loss in length should be figured
and taken account of on goods with a heavy rib, such as moire, faille, etc.

DISP. 7--A 3 1/3-inch repeat can be obtained with a 600-hook jacquard
machine, seven repeats in a width of 23 inches.

DISP. 8--Taffeta weave, but the two cotton picks must go in one hole. This
article can only be made with at least two shuttle boxes on each side. For
warping use a single and double cross reed, heavy cotton, no knots must be
tied.

DISP. 10--This article must be warped with as much tension as possible and
no knots should be tied in. Silk is to be delivered on bobbins from
throwster.

CANTON CREPE

DISP. 9--Can also be made with Canton silk for filling and may be called
Canton crepe. As Canton silk is much cheaper than Japan, the manufacturer
can use 4-thread Canton instead of 3-thread J

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